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09/07/08
Current Obsession #73
Filed under: Good to Know
Posted by: @ 8:12 pm

Move swiftly to The Zodiac Room at Nieman Marcus. A spot on lunch.

I’d highly suggest you slide the Prosciutto Sandwich across your tongue. Insanely good and a truly civilized lunch experience complete with consomme, popovers and tea. Tableside Nieman’s models peddling St. John to boot.

PROSCIUTTO SANDWICH with fried egg, arugula, tomato, Parmesan, and garlic aïoli on toasted country Italian bread. 13.00

The egg makes it something special.

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09/02/08
Key Lime Margaritas
Filed under: Recipes
Posted by: @ 12:02 pm

I dearly love Margaritas, but have found one that is well made to be an endangered species. Too often they are served in glasses far too large and built on a base of mass produced mix that is long on sugar, short on pucker and trail off with a chemical finish. At their best, Margaritas are small, well made cocktails that use a few simple ingredients that pack a refreshing punch. Could there possibly be a better flavor marriage than salt, lime, agave and a hint of orange?

In a perfect world extracting large amounts of fresh lime juice quickly would be a snap. Instead it is a messy, sticky quick track to carpel tunnel. Fortunately I have found the next best thing and have crafted what I think is an amazing Margarita around it. Here is the recipe. Enjoy.

1 part Cuervo Tradicional or similar top shelf tequila

¾ parts Nellie and Joe’s Key West Lime Juice (try Schnuck’s)

¼ parts Cointreau

½ parts Simple Syrup (see directions below)

Lime Wedge

Margarita Salt

  

Cut slit in center of lime wedge and run it around the glass rim. Salt the glass rim liberally. Fill glass with ice.

In a cocktail shaker mix tequila, lime juice, Cointreau and simple syrup with a little ice and shake like mad. Strain into glass over ice and garnish with the lime wedge.

 

Simple syrup: Mix equal parts sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to boil stirring frequently. Let the mixture boil for several minutes continuing to stir. Let the mixture cool to room temperature and funnel into a container of your choice.

 

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07/02/07
Chelsea Hotel
Filed under: Destinations, Articles
Posted by: @ 2:27 pm

I found this on Fodor’s today. This is definitely a “if these walls could talk” kind of place where a lot of great art was inspired and created. Unfortunately it currently has all the creature comforts of a transient hotel and has been surviving on its reputation for quite a while. I’m interested to see what they will do to make the hotel more tenable while keeping true to it’s hip, shabby chic roots. W

http://www.hotelchelsea.com/

Chelsea Hotel Passing Into History?

New York’s Chelsea Hotel has been a magnet for writers, film directors, actors, musicians, drunks and dreamers for most of its 125-year history. To call it the most colorful hotel in Manhattan would be an understatement. Indeed, what other hotel can lay claim to being both the site of a celebrity murder (Sid Vicious and Nancy Spungen in 1978) and the personal love nest of Janis Joplin and Leonard Cohen?

The hotel’s colorful character is about to undergo a dramatic change now that its Board of Directors has sold the Chelsea to BD Hotels NY, the same team that brought us The Mercer and Midtown’s The Chambers. According to a press release, BD Hotels will work with The Chelsea to “improve customer service and create more inviting and livelier common areas, and continue to modernize the hotel’s plumbing, mechanical, and electrical systems.”

Although BD Hotels has promised to retain some of the character of the Chelsea Hotel, they didn’t stop the Board of Directors of the Chelsea from dismissing Stanley Bard, the hotel’s longtime manager and co-owner for more than 50 years. Here’s more on the story from News.com. Also check out New York magazine’s coverage of the Bard ousting.

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09/26/06
TSA Adjusting the Ban on Liquids, Aerosols and Gels
Filed under: Good to Know
Posted by: @ 12:23 pm

The adjustment to the new TSA security requirements applies to all domestic and international flights departing from U.S. airports. Customers originating at non-U.S. airports should check with transportation security authorities in that country-of-origin for their requirements.

There are two significant changes to the current TSA security requirements for U.S. origination:

  1. Customers may now carry through the security checkpoints travel-size toiletries (3 ounces or less) that fit comfortably in ONE, QUART-SIZE, clear plastic, zip-top bag.
  2. After clearing security, customers may now bring beverages and other items purchased in the secure boarding area on-board the aircraft.
“After the initial, total ban, we have learned enough from the UK investigation to say with confidence that small, travel size liquids are safe to bring through security checkpoints in limited numbers,” said Assistant Secretary for TSA Kip Hawley. “We have also taken additional security measures throughout the airport that make us comfortable allowing passengers to bring beverages and other items purchased in the secure area onboard.”

Customers will be asked at the security checkpoints to remove the clear plastic zip-top bag of liquids from their carry-on bag and place it in a bin or on the conveyor belt to be X-rayed separately, allowing for easier examination of the declared items.

Current exemptions to the TSA security requirements include 5 ounces of prescription liquid medications and diabetic glucose treatments. Larger amounts of these exempt items and all baby formula must be declared at the checkpoint for additional screening.

TSA first implemented the ban on all liquids, gels and aerosols on August 10 after U.K. officials uncovered a terrorist plot involving transatlantic flights bound for the United States.

For the most current up-to-date information on the new TSA security requirements, visit the TSA’s Web site at www.tsa.gov.

Adjustments to the TSA security requirements will also be posted to the Resource Center tab on WorldAgent Direct as they become available.

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08/30/06
The Magnificent French 75
Filed under: Recipes
Posted by: @ 1:44 pm

The French 75 is the rarest of breeds, as it stands alone as the only manly champagne cocktail on the planet.

 

This elegant, yet potent classic was first built and poured by WWI fighter pilots who named their creation after the legendary French artillery weapon known for it’s destructive force and wicked kick.

 

Some recipes use gin and apple brandy. The one I prefer has a base of Cognac.

 

1 jigger Cognac

Juice of ½ lemon or lime

Dash of simple syrup

1 drop Angostura Bitters

Orange twist

Maraschino Cherry

 

Mix Cognac, citrus, simple syrup and bitters in a shaker with plenty of cracked ice. Strain into champagne flute and top with champagne. Garnish and make merry.

 

You now have the perfect drink to tipple as you make the rounds during next years Bastille Day Celebration. Please note that this recipe is best enjoyed while wearing full Napoleonic gear.

 

VIVA LA 75!!

 

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08/10/06
New Airport Security Guidelines
Filed under: Good to Know
Posted by: @ 12:37 pm

In response to a serious terrorist threat to international aviation security, the Secretary of Homeland Security has elevated the Homeland Security Advisory System Threat Condition to Severe, or Red, for all commercial flights from the United Kingdom to the United States, and to High, or Orange, for all other international flights and all domestic commercial aviation.

The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) will be implementing a series of security measures – some visible and some not visible – to ensure the security of the traveling public and the Nation’s transportation system.  TSA is immediately implementing following changes to airport screening procedures:

NO LIQUIDS OR GELS OF ANY KIND WILL BE PERMITTED IN CARRY-ON BAGGAGE. ITEMS MUST BE IN CHECKED BAGGAGE. This includes all beverages, shampoo, suntan lotion, creams, toothpaste, hair gel, and other items of similar consistency.

Exception: Baby formula, breast milk, or juice if a baby or small child is traveling; prescription medicine with a name that matches the passenger’s ticket; and insulin and essential other non-prescription medicines.

As a reminder, please check in a minimum of 2 hours prior to all flights to allow for increased security measures.

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08/08/06
Poland: A Summer Sampler
Filed under: Destinations
Posted by: @ 10:24 am

Field Notes by Steve Lipe

 

Thank you for helping us have one of our most exciting and interesting travel trips ever. And, who would think we would find it in Poland? This country is a well kept vacation treasure that is not only fun, but also very cost efficient. The exchange rate was more than three Polish Zlotys (PLN) to one US Dollar. Prices included all taxes which placed us in the situation of always feeling as if we were truly receiving the most for our bucks. Plus, the tip expenditures are well below our standards and the Polish people are very appreciative of them. In fact, they are appreciative of anything.

 

Poland is six hours ahead of us, so we left in the late afternoon and arrived in Krakow in late morning having slept a good part of the night flight. We were rested enough to adjust to their time, have a full day and go to sleep without problems. Not one of our ten travelers had jet lag. Nice!

 

Souljourn did a terrific job with airline logistics to coordinate our family reunion attendees’ arrival times from US origins in the north and south and east and west. We checked in to the Hotel Ester, a wonderful, small European hotel in the Kazimierz Jewish quarter of the city, and started our private guided tour to get oriented. They showed us all the points of interest that we had requested and others we had overlooked while giving us historical details on all.

 

Krakow is a thriving and bustling city full of energy. Some of this is due to the large percentage of international students studying at Jagiellonian University which is the second oldest university in Eastern Europe. We spent time in the Old Market Square which was packed with outdoor restaurants, cafes and bars all with comfortable seating under many large and various colored umbrellas. There are fresh fruit and vegetable stands with all types of fruit. Sweet cherries, sour cherries, blueberries, gooseberries, blackberries, boysenberries and more. Cobblestone streets run everywhere. These places were always packed whether it was late morning or late night. The whole atmosphere seems always humming and yet not loud. And, people watching! It doesn’t get better than here anywhere. Street artists, mimes, musicians, live human “statues” interestingly dressed, many types of unusual hair colors and styles and nice, fun loving, peaceful people.

 

We especially enjoyed Wawel Castle, a 1,000 year old palace and fortress atop a hill and housing royal treasures, armor and crypts. The President of Poland was visiting the castle while we were there. We all enjoyed the 13th-century Cloth Hall filled with souvenir and craft stalls and more very interesting people. Some enjoyed seeing St. Mary’s Church; the cathedrals here are unbelievably beautiful – large, ornate and richly decorated and steeped in history and framed in classic architecture.

 

Some of us took a public English speaking tour of the Wieliczka Salt Mines founded in the 10th Century, the oldest salt mines in the world, that run 90 miles underground and contain a chapel carved in salt complete with salt crystal chandeliers. A men’s male choir sang to us in this perfect acoustical environment. Statues, monuments and underground lakes are in this UNESCO World Heritage list museum. We walked down some 1300 steps to begin touring and returned to the surface in 40 seconds by the miners’ elevators. Quite an experience.

 

And the food! We where all expecting the worst and we found some of the best. Complimentary breakfast at the Hotel Ester? Compare your Hampton Inn experience with this: hard rolls, a variety of fresh baked breads including Polish rye and pumpernickel, sweet bread with fresh jams and jellies, four bulk cold cereals, milk, giraffes of four juices, whole fresh fruit and sliced fresh fruit, two types of deviled eggs, feta and other cheeses, tomatoes that are out of this world, cucumber slices, yogurt, liver pâté, sliced ham, sections of trout and salmon, several salads and more. All of this is taken to your clean white cloth covered table with a fresh flower vase and real silverware. Need anything? Your table is serviced by nice young smiling attendants who also bring you coffee or tea. That is what I call a real complimentary breakfast. All of our breakfasts in every city started this way. What a way to get started!

 

Our first night dinner was at Hotel Ester. We ate outdoors under the umbrellas and by the street which was more an open town square. Many people everywhere. Sandy and I enjoyed grilled salmon and vegetables. Cheesecake and apple pie. All with a small instrumental and vocal group performing very good gypsy and Jewish music. Sunday Erin joined us for lunch at Restaurant Szara in the Jewish quarter. Ate inside because of the heat, but outside was still a bit cooler with the breeze. Excellent food. Sandy loved the gazpacho soup and I had a French tort filled with feta cheese, black olives and spinach. We roamed the Old Market Square and met for drinks in the afternoon at the umbrella covered Polonia House bar on the square. Early Sunday evening we enjoyed another delicious meal at Mjod Malina Restauracja on a street right off the square. Afterwards we went to a small concert (maybe 20 people present) to be treated to internationally acclaimed pianist Mariusz Adamczak who treated us to some incredibly beautiful Chopin music. We met back outside our hotel for drinks and stories and plans. Very nice day.

 

Another day our private driver and guide took us 38 miles west of Krakow through the Auschwitz Nazi extermination camp, and the nearby Birkenau death camp. This cannot be explained, but only experienced and we are all very glad that we did.

 

After Monday’s tour of Auschwitz we met back at the hotel for lunch. That afternoon we spread to the four corners. I went with a group of the girls as they shopped. Sandy found two beautiful pastel skirt and top outfits at Vera Moni on Stradomski Street. That night Erin and I checked email and news at the Zero Internet Café. Two machines. Two people. One half hour each. Total cost for both was five zlotys or about $1.57. Not bad. The rest headed for Vincent’s for cherry pierogis (dumplings filled with fruit).

 

Krakow is a must see city.

 

Tuesday morning our private driver and guide (Ted and Simon) picked us up at the hotel in their touring van and off we headed to Wadowice 51 miles southeast of Krakow. Enroute we stopped at Basilica Bernadine Monastery and Drozki (via Dolorosa). This is where the Black Madonna is said to cry tears of blood before any major tragedy. This monastery and church is gorgeous. We leave snacking on Polish cookies Ted’s wife had made for us. By this point we already know that we have really true professionals guiding us. The guide could not have been more personable and knowledgeable. Simon pointed out historical and architectural details that greatly enhanced the experience. We never felt rushed or felt we were receiving any “canned” presentation. Everything was tailored to our requests. We arrived in Wadowice, a beautiful mountain medieval city where Pope John Paul II was born and spent most of his youth. He lived with his parents in an upstairs apartment. The entire building has since been turned into a museum. We donned special slippers over our shoes to protect the floors and toured an impressive collection of his personal memorabilia, commemorative awards and historical documents. Then we toured the Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary which was Pope John Paul II’s home church. Beautiful.

 

Afterwards we traveled to a famous country restaurant, The Steskal. Built from logs, we entered as a maiden rang bells by the door as each guest entered. Once seated the owner came out and ordered homemade plum vodka shots for his “guests.” It was a real treat. We each had some type of native Polish food. I had kielbasa sausage with several salads. Horseradish was the best. Fresh breads. Wonderful.

 

We continued on to our night’s destination of Zakopane but first we stopped in the quaint mountain village of Chocholow where we saw typical early Polish homes built from logs without the use of any nails. These houses looked new even though they were a couple hundred years old because (get this) the woman of each home would scrub wash the exterior twice a year. We toured a home and visited with a local wood carver. Extraordinary work.  

Zakopane is 100 miles south of Krakow and we checked into Hotel Litwor there Tuesday evening and bid Ted and Simon a good night. Another great European hotel that Wes recommended. We had a journaling party in our room as the girls decided to start making some notes. Diane, Dorothy and I went to Karczma Bacowka, a little bar on the street in the thick of things. Everyone else shopped the stores before ending up in the pool and the Jacuzzi back at Hotel Litwor.

 

Wednesday morning in Zakopane treated us to another wonderful European breakfast. I especially loved the fresh strawberry yogurt over granola and topped with fresh raspberries. Yum! By 0900 we were heading up the funicular ride to Mount Gubalowska, What a spectacular view of the Tatra Mountains. We rode to the top and then hiked back down. That trip took us about 40 minutes. We seemed to be enjoying the walk down much better than those who chose to walk up. Once down we walked through all types of in and outdoor shops. Many food vendors. I tried the fried cheese. Salty and chewy. Very good.

 

We spent the good part of the day walking Zakopane. We visited the all wood “By the Heart of Mary Church;” it is the oldest church in the city. We also walked through the Sankuariam Matki Bozej Fatimskiej graveyard where our guide gave us excellent insight into its history and all the notables buried there. The headstones were the most unusual ones any of us have ever seen. Very interesting.

 

Zakopane is a favorite of the Polish people. It has almost year round snow skiing, folklore, hiking, interesting architecture. Did I mention shops? This is more a Polish tourist site. Think Gatlinburg. But, it was interesting and well worth the visit.

 

The next day we head with our private tour bus and guide to Kazimierz Dolny via a lunch stop in Sandomerez. We wanted to get a view of the countryside. We drive mile after mile through farming areas with 20 yard wide strips perpendicular to the road that go out of sight. They are growing cabbage, corn, tomatoes, onions, wheat, summer squash, potatoes and sweet peas are all spotted. We pass a large lake that we learn is a “sweet fish farm” used for raising carp. Although Poland’s national bird is the white eagle, we never see one. We do, however, spot a huge nest of very large storks on top of a pole. Just outside Sandomierz we pass through large sections of fruit trees on both sides of the road. We identify peaches, cherries, pears, cherries and apples. We also see tomatoes. All crops are very neat, orderly and well-maintained.

 

Sandomerez is a small, ancient hilltop town with checkerboard-paved streets and a fort-like 14th century town hall in the center. We stop at a recommended restaurant for lunch under the shade of the green umbrellas. The salads in Poland are terrific. This one salad was equal portions of tomatoes, shredded carrots and shredded cabbage with some added raisins. Their salad secret in Poland is that they are so light and do not come with heavier American dressings. Instead, all salads are tossed in a light olive oil and water mixture to which is added some citrus juice and some spices. For dessert we hit a nearby lody shop. I had pecan ice cream. This turned out to be the best I had in all of Poland and that is saying a lot. Very sweet. Rich and creamy, but a serving scoop is only a third of the standard US serving.

 

Enroute to Kazimierz Dolny we are again impressed with the countryside. We pass large sections of fields where string beans are being grown on what looks to be at least 20 foot tall poles. These crops seem to be everywhere along this route.

We arrived at the Hotel Wenus, checked in and headed out to tour this beautiful Renaissance city on the banks of the Vistula River. We went though the remains of a 14th century castle that was very interesting. One portion was 20 meters tall with a four meter thick stone base and a 10 meter diameter. What a view of the town and river! The girls went shopping in the square while Dorothy and I continued to do the hard work of assessing Polish draft beer.

  

After yet another good dinner that everyone raved about; the restaurant owner treated us to our choice of orange, lemon or plum vodka shots. Nice! We walked back to the hotel along the Vistula River walkway. The hotel had an outdoor bar under umbrellas located between the river and the hotel.

 

Friday morning’s breakfast at Hotel Wenus was similar but different. The tables have several pastel colored cloths and a vase red roses. Very pretty and comfortable. Instead of a buffet, we had a choice of ordering one of five meals. For example, I had a whole tomato, lettuce, fresh Polish rye bread, homemade multiple berry jam (strawberries, cherries, red and black currants), a tangerine, slices of cheese and slabs of butter. The four other choices were similar but gave you an added choice of ham, sausage, scrambled eggs or cereal.

 

This was another small, very nice hotel with real room keys. The rooms were nice with all amenities including hairdryers. All of our hotels had TV’s but the station choices were limited and mostly in Polish. You think American TV is risqué. Wow! There was an English international CNN channel, but with an entirely different format and unfamiliar anchors. We got all the news we cared about through interpretation on the tour bus radio.

 

One of the many blessings of our travel plans was being able to just walk out of the hotels without owing anything additional. We just walk right onto our waiting private tour bus and we were enroute to Warsaw.

 

Part of the plan for this Krakow to Warsaw route was to give us an opportunity to see a great deal of the Polish countryside and it really paid off. Red flower boxes were ubiquitous! They seem to hang from virtually every home. We spotted six more stork nests atop poles. One clearly had four storks in it.

 

Polish radio plays many American hit songs but most of them are sung by Polish sound alike singers. In fact, we swore one was by Rod Stewart but by the end we picked up that it was just another impersonator.

Entering Warsaw we see primarily stark gray Communist architecture that is cold and uninspired. This city was once the “Paris of the North” until completely destroyed in WWII. But, once we get to our accommodations for the next two nights, Hotel Sofitel Victoria-Warsaw, things look much better. Kudos to the hotel for providing 110 volt electricity. This hotel is large, very modern and directly across from the giant courtyard and gardens surrounding the Polish Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We can see the changing of the guard from our room. Very impressive.

 

We had our own private orientation to the city. What a great way to decide exactly where you want to spend your time. We begin our tour by walking over to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and through the nearby gardens. Again, our guide gives us in depth perspective and history of our surroundings. She even had photos to show us before and after the war structural comparisons. Very good color and commentary. We board our touring van and see the Old Opera House, the Monument to the Warsaw Uprising and several other points of interest including two beautiful parks and cathedrals. We proceeded on to the Old Town or Old City of Warsaw. Just beautiful. Again, a huge square with restaurants outside on the streets and protected by the large varying colored umbrellas. This place is hopping. We spend our days and nights walking the Old Town Market. Fascinating. People watching. Shopping. Testing and critiquing of Polish beers.  Some of us hit the hotel business center which offered complimentary computers with internet access.

 

We take the concierge’s recommendation for dinner at The Secret, right off the square. The ambience of this place was exceptional. We were downstairs and had our own private little cavern with a painted mural covering the walls and rounded ceiling. Excellent service and food. I had the mushroom and pasta soup along with a delicious trout entrée. Afterwards, lody for all from a store front on the square.

  

Late Sunday morning we all board the RailEurope for a 2.9 hour train ride from Warsaw to Poznan. Very nice. Assigned seating. Non-smoking. Smooth ride. We enjoyed the passing countryside.

Our private guide and driver meet us at the end of the platform, give us a huge luggage assist and we’re on a nice cool touring van heading for check-in at Hotel Novotel Centrum-Poznan. Great hotel that is remodeling and expanding. Once again our guide is superb. Very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about showing us his country. These guides go through a rigorous training and testing process to become certified and it shows.

 

Poznan is also a fun city. We all split to go to our points of interest. Through some contacts Erin and I were able to tour the Poland National Radio studios. In fact, we were even interviewed on air with the help of interpreters. We went 30 kilometers south of the city and toured a castle that contained collections of armor, paintings and all types of furniture and art work. To stand right next to an original 1st Century mosaic is very interesting.

This whole country is steeped in history and has quickly adapted to capitalism. The Polish people could not be nicer. Before we were ready, we were on the plane back home. We could have stayed longer.

 

Thanks for setting up a great trip!

 

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08/01/06
RULE 240 - The Traveler’s Stick
Filed under: Good to Know
Posted by: @ 3:04 pm

Rule 240: Don’t Leave Home Without It 

Taken from a mytravelrights.com article by Al Anolik

Here’s your secret weapon for fighting airline delays, cancellations, and missed connections:

Rule 240.

Before airline deregulation in 1978, Rule 240 was literally a federal requirement. Nowadays, it’s a term describing what individual airlines will do for late or stranded passengers. In fact, the major airlines have filed “conditions of carriage” with the U.S. Department of Transporatation (DOT) guaranteeing their respective Rule 240s.

If your flight is delayed or cancelled, or if you’ve missed your flight connection, these policies may give you free meal vouchers, hotel accommodations, phone calls, and other amenities. You may be booked on a substitute flight — even on another airline — and you may be compensated or given a full refund if the flight problems persist.

How can you use Rule 240 to protect your rights?

Always carry a printed copy of your airline’s Rule 240. Though the DOT requires airlines to keep a Rule 240 copy available for passengers at every ticket counter, don’t count on that.

(Click on your airline’s name below for a copy of its official Rule 240.)

Read Rule 240 carefully before you use it. Many airline ticket agents do not know these policies, so you should be the expert

For example, Rule 240s generally apply only to delays that are absolutely the airline’s fault, such as mechanical delays. They do not apply to what the airlines call “force majeure” events: weather, strikes, “acts of God,” or other occurrences that the airlines say they cannot control.

Be polite but very firm about your rights under Rule 240. You’ll win most battles at ticket counters when you say the phrase “Rule 240″ and show the agent your printed copy of the airline’s policies. However, don’t hesitate to keep going up the chain to supervisors if you’re not satisfied. Sometimes, airlines will even go beyond Rule 240 requirements in the name of customer service. (Not always, but it’s worth a shot!)

Known as “the dean of travel law,” Al Anolik, Esq., is president of Alexander Anolik, P.L.C., in San Francisco, the largest U.S. law firm specializing in the practice of travel law and travel industry litigation. He is a founder of the International Forum of Travel and Tourism Advocates (the global association of travel industry attorneys) and served a record seven terms as its president. He wrote the first travel law textbook in 1977,and he currently teaches travel law at San Francisco State University and at the University of Hawaii.

America West

American Airlines

Continental Airlines

Delta Air Lines

Frontier Airlines

Hawaiian Airlines

Northwest Airlines

Southwest Airlines  

United Airlines

US Airways

 

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07/31/06
Blue Sky Thinking
Filed under: Articles
Posted by: @ 3:06 pm

The American work ethic may be admirable enough, but if they took a break every now and then, argues Paul Harris, they might learn a bit about the rest of the world

Thursday July 20 2006 The Guardian UK

There is an advert on American television that tells a simple story. The commercial, which is artfully depicted in beautiful pencilled animation, is seeking to promote an airline. It begins with a young boy gazing in wonder at an jet plane flying high above. The boy then grows up, gets a job and marries. At each juncture in his busy life he looks up wistfully at the blue skies but is too preoccupied to act on his desire. Finally, as a grey-haired old man after his retirement, he again sees a plane in the sky above and finally hops on board, heading off to explore the world.

Now American advertisers are a canny bunch. They know their market. They have judged that this little tale is a heartwarming one. It is of a young boy’s dream fulfilled. It will boost that airline’s positive image. The story therefore is seen as resonating with Americans in a happy way. But to European eyes (or at least to mine) this is not a happy story at all. It is heart-breaking tragedy. What is this man thinking? He has dreamed of travelling the world since he was a boy and only gets around to it when he’s retired. Is he insane? What was keeping him busy all that time? The answer, of course: work.

There are few greater differences between America and Europe than attitudes to work. The old saying that Americans live to work while Europeans work to live often rings true. There is a huge work ethic in America built on hard labour and sacrifice, and not too much in the way of leisure time, in which there is much to admire. But also very little to envy.

One brutal statistic sums it up: taken as a whole the average European gets about six weeks a year in holiday. The average American gets only two weeks. In America this difference is often mentioned by columnists and economists in celebratory terms.

They point gleefully to America’s superior productivity rates and higher GNP. They see Europe as economically moribund. This is bizarre to the European mind. It’s not so much a Transatlantic argument, as two entirely different conversations. Of course, work is good. But it is not all there is.

When did a productivity rate last get you a nice suntan? Given the choice between contributing a bit more to national GNP or spending an extra two weeks in southern Spain, which would you take? A little less work is a good thing.

But I believe that it is time for Americans take a break. Or moreprecisely several breaks. An extra two weeks holiday for all Americans would do the country a whole lot of good.

Firstly, I am sure a few economic output statistics would dip but not by a huge amount. I met a factory manager on a plane to Washington state once who had spent time in Germany and marvelled at how - despite so much more holiday - the workers there still completed their orders in the same time as their American colleagues.

The answer was simple common sense: if you give someone 48 weeks to do a job and then 4 weeks holiday, the job gets done in 48 weeks. If you give someone 50 weeks to do the same job, and two weeks holiday, then the job takes 50 weeks.

 Secondly, at a time of huge American concern about outsourcing jobs abroad, an extra two weeks of holiday for American workers would give a massive boost to America’s leisure and service industries. It would be boom time for resorts across America. Perversely, taking a holiday could create jobs.

 Thirdly, and finally, it would be good for the rest of the world. America is just too big and too many people live in the wide open spaces in the middle to make going abroad easy. In London if you fly two hours you can probably end up in a dozen different countries. In Ohio, you will barely make it to New York. With just two weeks holiday to spend (with some days used up letting in the gas man or visiting relatives) it becomes difficult to spend the time and effort to get anywhere outside North America. That leads to an inevitable lack of interest and knowledge about much of the world that can feed into politics. Before he became President, George W Bush had never been to Europe. This not to say Americans wouldn’t love to find out more about the rest of us, it is just that on two weeks leave they don’t get much of a chance.

 This is what leads many Europeans to look in bafflement as Americans visit their shores in frenetic bursts, snapping pictures and ticking off as many countries as they can. Europeans tend to slip into an easy anti-American prejudice when they see this behaviour. But the truth is that if you’ve flown all the way from Ohio, and only have five days to ’do Europe’ on your one holiday that year then of course you are going to try and pack in as much as you can.

So, with an extra two weeks off, Americans could relax. They could travel more often, more widely and much more slowly. They would get to know the world a bit better. The rest of the world would get to know them better too. Everyone would be happier. In troubled times like these how could that be a bad thing?

 Copyright Guardian Newspapers Limited

 

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07/27/06
Brennan’s Bananas Foster
Filed under: Recipes
Posted by: @ 3:37 pm

Bananas, butter, brown sugar, rum. This maybe the greatest collision of flavors in dessert history. 

Here is the original recipe created in 1951 for frequent guest and banana lover Richard Foster at Brennan’s in the French Quarter. Today Brennan’s fires over 35,000 pounds of bananas annually for this, the most popular dish on the menu.

- 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
- 1 cup brown sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1/4 cup banana liqueur
- 4 bananas, cut in half lengthwise, then halved
- 1/4 cup dark rum
- 4 scoops vanilla ice cream

Combine the butter, sugar, and cinnamon in a flambé pan or skillet.

Place the pan over low heat either on an alcohol burner or on top of the stove, and cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves.

Stir in the banana liqueur, then place the bananas in the pan.

When the banana sections soften and begin to brown, carefully add the rum.

Continue to cook the sauce until the rum is hot, then tip the pan slightly to ignite the rum.

When the flames subside, lift the bananas out of the pan and place four pieces over each portion of ice cream.

Generously spoon warm sauce over the top of the ice cream and serve immediately.

Serves Four

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Santa Fe – Perfecto Diciembre Vacaciones
Filed under: Destinations
Posted by: @ 1:38 pm

From the Summer 06′ Soujourn Aficion:

 

The Aficion highly recommends Santa Fe as the ideal destination to stoke the Yuletide fires in the days leading up to Christmas. The glow of luminarias outline the adobes and light the way for evening walks that fill your lungs with crisp air and your nose with the scent of burning firewood. Foodies will worship Santa Fe as it is the type of city you eat your way through. Dishes featuring the amazing New Mexican chile were enjoyed at virtually every meal. Our favorite spot was The Shed, a local’s haunt positioned just off the Plaza that specializes in authentic Southwestern comfort food. It might have been the altitude, but their house Margaritas sent us reeling. For breakfast Tia Sofia is a top choice with Huevos Rancheros that bring tears to your eyes. Nearby Café Pasqual is also very good with an entertaining staff – try the breakfast burrito with chorizo. The Bishop’s Lodge just west of town is THE place for brunch and mimosas by the fire on a Sunday morning.

 

Santa Fe’s central Plaza marks the end of the Santa Fe Trail and also the point from which Old Santa Fe radiates. During the day you will find Native American locals selling silver and turquoise on quilts draped across the sidewalk flanking the Palace of the Governors. It’s fun to shop, barter and chat with the craftsmen who provide high quality products at prices far below the local retail outlets. Lovers of art will also enjoy Santa Fe’s eclectic mix of street vendors and high end galleries. For those with kids the Santa Fe Southern Railroad offers themed, scenic daytrips to nearby towns aboard vintage rail cars. We took our wee Max on the Santa Fe Santa Train and had an absolute blast. Other can’t miss points of interest are The San Miguel Mission, the country’s oldest functioning church which was built in 1610 and features a bell cast in 1356. Another church of note is the Loretto Chapel which is famous for its spiral staircase which was supposedly built by a mysterious carpenter who created the structure using few tools and no nails or visible means of support. Upon its completion legend has it that the carpenter suddenly left Santa Fe without payment.

 

The snaking streets of old Santa Fe have a cozy, almost European feel that make for great shopping and gallery hopping. Santa Fe Photographics was an interesting find that has a basement location and specializes in vintage reproductions of Native American photographs. For ladies with a weakness for cowboy boots Back at the Ranch is a shite-kickin’ boutique that specializes in custom boots in rainbow hues that would make Porter Wagoner queasy.

 

The Inn of the Anasazi is where we hung our hats during our stay. No, I actually wore a cowboy hat for the trip and have a sneaking suspicion that I looked amazingly similar to Clark Griswold in the Dodge City saloon. The first thing you notice about the property is the service. Upon pulling to the curb our car was swarmed by a team of guys who looked like they were chasing Steven Segal in one of his fringe jacket movies - you know, black hat, black shirt, black duster and bolo tie. To me a hallmark of good service is the ability to recall the name of someone months after interacting with them. At the Anasazi there were three: George the bartender, Patrick the concierge and Mark the bellhop. Yes, the hotel was structurally pleasing, but these guys elevated it to a home away from home. The Inn is constructed in the traditional adobe style and features a warm mix of timber, tile and stucco. Most rooms come with gas fireplaces, log and pine ceilings and beds that put you into a mild coma. The property features the locally renowned Anasazi restaurant that fuses southwestern an Asian cuisines. A highlight of our stay was a private fireside dinner in the secluded “living room” with Max sleeping on a nearby couch. This must be booked in advance with the concierge and there is no additional cost for guests. The Anasazi bar is a small spot to enjoy cocktails made with artisan care. The day bartender George was a wealth of information and passed along a few tips that have greatly enhanced my mixology talents.

 

Getting to Santa Fe is fairly easy and requires an hour drive north from Albuquerque. For those who have more time a visit north to Taos is a nice add-on. In short, Santa Fe is an easy and cozy winter getaway, particularly in December when the town comes alive with light and seasonal cheer. And for those on your X-mas list who are tough to shop for, Santa Fe has a boutique or art stall to fit any taste.

 

http://www.innoftheanasazi.com/

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07/25/06
Dana Plonka - The Far Out Far East Diary
Filed under: Destinations
Posted by: @ 10:14 am

Good friend Dana P has just returned from The Peoples Repulic and by her own admission, “blogged her brains out”. A saucy literary statement if I have ever heard one.

The full diary and photographs from her Silk Road sojourn can be found via the link below.  I particualry enjoyed the entry about Chariman Mao’s luminescent cabeza. Enjoy!

http://www.mailorderbridevintage.com/home/

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07/05/06
The Beautiful Quirkiness of St. Lucia
Filed under: Destinations
Posted by: @ 9:01 am

St. Lucia is a Caribbean gem - one whose appeal lies not in its pristine sparkle, but rather its jagged cut and its deep shades of green and blue. Lush, mountainous terrain, sparse population and wonderful people are among the primary attributes that make this dramatically beautiful island the antithesis of Caribbean outposts that worship at the altar of McResort. The lack of extensive commercial development can only make one wonder if this is how most of the Caribbean was 40 years ago. Getting to St. Lucia from St. Louis is surprisingly easy if not entirely quick. The only direct international flights from the US come in and out of Hewanorra airport on the far southern tip of the island, and originate in Miami and Atlanta. Both arrive and depart at about the same time each day. Flights into Castries to the north are usually routed through San Juan or another island. From St. Louis the quickest route is the 6am Delta flight to Atlanta where a 9:45 connection to the island is made. Travel time from Atlanta to Hewanorra is about 4 hours and 10 minutes.

 

One will quickly notice that getting anywhere in St. Lucia is not easy due to its extreme geography. The trip between Hewanorra and Soufriere is 11 miles yet takes about 45 to 50 minutes to negotiate. From Soufriere to Castries is approximately 20 miles and takes an additional hour and twenty minutes. For those who don’t do well with car sickness I can suggest a helicopter transfer without hesitation. At $125-$140 per seat per direction it actually is a good deal, especially for those who want to avoid feeling a bit gritty and green upon arrival.

 

During our three nights we toured seven properties, four of them being places I enjoyed and would feel comfortable recommending to clients. Three of these were located in Soufriere and one in the Gros Islet area north of Castries.

 

The Jalousie Plantation was home for my brief visit. It’s ridiculously spectacular location on the bay between the much photographed Twin Piton mountains places it as one of the most majestic pieces of real estate I have ever witnessed. In fact the area has been designated as the most recent UNESCO world heritage site. The scene is almost surreal as you have the lush, tropical valley steeply rolling into a calm blue bay flanked on each side by mountains that rise over 2,500 feet directly out of the water. Verdant, dramatic and beautiful – the kind of place you would not at all be surprised to see a T-Rex come lumbering down the slope.

 

As for the Jalousie itself, everything is right there to make this a world class property but it just comes up a bit short of its potential. Recently the property was purchased from Hilton by a private investor who has yet to overhaul the somewhat tired accommodations and common areas. Make no mistake this is still a very nice property, just one lacking attention to detail. At these prices detail has to be job one.

 

Among the strengths of this property are its free standing villas with private plunge pools that provide a good amount of privacy and jaw-dropping Piton views. Those who like challenging walks will love this resort as the hills are too much for most to handle. For this reason shuttles run constantly ferrying guests to the beach, pool and main house. All cottages are air conditioned; a rarity for resorts in the immediate area. The calm waters of Anse Jalousie make for excellent snorkeling particularly along the northern edge. The resort features the wonderful convenience of a helipad which delivers one from the airport in a mere 7 minutes. The pool is large and occupied primarily by families. On Saturdays a weekly “sundowner” ritual plays out on the beach as a saxophonist clad in white linen and dreadlocks plays jazz through a remote amplifier while standing knee deep in the surf. The music perfectly compliments the tropical twilight resulting in a unique and perfectly relaxed energy.

 

From the beach look all the way up to the top of the valley and there sits Ladera, a property that has long been on my fantasy hotel hit list. The uniqueness of Ladera is found in the fact that all 26 units only have three walls, meaning that panoramic views of the pitons, valley and bay are on constant display. This is a boutique property that provides high-end rustic luxury in rooms that require you to sleep with a mosquito net. Although all units are open air the feel is very secluded, and with a plunge pool in most rooms some guests may never find the need to leave. Those who do choose to go out and explore can hop the shuttle that takes guests down to the beach at the Jalousie Plantation.

 

Competing with the views at Ladera is its food served nightly at the breezy Dasheene Restaurant. Chef Orlando Satchell is a James Beard award winning chef who prepares elegant Caribbean inspired dishes that are delicious and understated. Only native St. Lucian ingredients are used in his preparations. We were fortunate enough to dine with him and listen to his philosophy on food and island life. Remember the name, as he is a charismatic character who stands a fair shot of gaining celebrity chef status ala Emeril.

 

Skirting the restaurant and bar is Ladera’s petite infinity pool. All things considered this was my favorite of the properties we inspected. Children under 15 are not allowed.

 

On the other side of Petit Piton lies the sleepy fishing village of Soufriere, which literally means “sulphur in the atmosphere”.  Not an entirely appealing title but nonetheless it is an unspoiled close knit community where outsiders are welcome. Just one more bay up the coast sits Anse Chastenet, a low-tech high end resort that conjures a very natural, bohemian feel. The resort owner, architect Nick Troubetzkoy, understands that the dazzling scenery is the star of the show and has developed a chic resort that showcases all natural attributes in panoramic fashion. Like Ladera this is a resort for those who don’t mind a bug bite or two and value simplicity and natural scenic beauty. This is also not a resort for those who are not fit, as the property is positioned on a steep hillside and only accessible via a series of staircases. The rooms that stood out were the Deluxe Hillside “Ginger” unit that featured a tree growing through the room and the spacious Premium Hillside rooms which offer 180 degree panoramas of the mountains and bay.  Art, both funky and abstract hang abundantly at Anse Chastenet and most if not all pieces were created on site. The deal struck with the artist being, “you may stay as long as you like and use the atmosphere as your muse, but the work must be completed while on premises.” The result is an eclectic combination of carvings, paintings and sculptures that give each room and public space warmth and character not found in a commercial property.

  

The food at Anse is wonderful mix of French and Caribbean cuisine. The resort offers both EP and all-inclusive plans for its guests with some packages including dives, mountain biking, and cruises. It is important to note that in keeping with the au natural philosophy of the resort that there is no pool. I guess they figure when you have an infinite deep blue sea packed with colorful aquatic life, who wants to sit in an uninspired bowl of chlorinated water. Long known as a diving Mecca, Anse Chastenet has the island’s best dive shop and a wealth of great dive sites nearby.

 

Due north of the Soufriere area is the town of Castries, the islands largest city and site of the island’s northern airport. Land transfer between the two towns is about 22 miles yet takes over an hour due to the hilly, curvaceous roads. For this reason I strongly recommend taking a water taxi from either Jalousie Bay or Soufriere. An interesting spot to watch Castries diverse population going about their daily business is the local supermarket. Here you can not only soak up a little local flavor, but also pick up island “necessities” such as the sublime Admiral Rodney’s Rum and a bottle of surprisingly tasty banana ketchup. The official unit of currency in St. Lucia is the EC (Eastern Caribbean Dollar) however US dollars are readily accepted.

 

The premier resort in the north is LeSport – The Body Holiday. Its location places it just north of Gros Islet, site of a weekly Saturday night “Jump Up’ or street party that draws a lively mix of locals and tourists. “Give us your body for a week and we’ll give you back your mind” is the tagline of LeSport. The resort has a unique take on the upscale all inclusive experience. Decidedly European in its design and format, the property caters to those who seek rejuvenation through participation in a vast menu of activities, classes and spa treatments, all of which are included in the all-inclusive format.  The resort has a very relaxed vibe, perfect for those who prefer yoga on the beach to limbo by the pool. Unlike the Soufriere properties the AC blasts with Arctic ferocity in the simply decorated rooms that come sans television. Because the focus here is mind clearing rather than syrupy romance or consuming ones weight in rum, LeSport is popular with single travelers. They have furthered their reputation as a singles friendly resort by not charging a single supplement for guests who travel alone. The beach at the resort is a picturesque crescent that provides views of nearby Pigeon Island, site of the 2 closing days of May’s St. Lucia Jazz Festival.

 

In summary the appeal of St. Lucia lies not in what it has, but rather doesn’t. There is little in the way of efficient transportation, hermetically sealed hotel rooms, conga-line nightlife or shopping opportunities - and for these reasons those who seek a predictable resort vacation experience would certainly not fare well here. However, for the right person the mix of unique accommodations, great food, dazzling scenery and outdoor pursuits make this beuatifully quirky island a perfect fit.  

www.ladera.com

www.jalousieplantation.com

www.ansechastenet.com

www.thebodyholiday.com

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06/08/06
Passport Procrasination
Filed under: Good to Know
Posted by: @ 9:43 am

A friendly reminder that for all air and sea travel outside the US you will need a valid passport as of December 31st. Under normal circumstances passports take 4 - 6 weeks to process. With the rush that is sure to come toward the end of the year that time frame could expand significantly. Applying for a passport is easy. Simply go to www.travel.state.gov for applications and directions and process the requirements through your local post office. Reciept of your passport is the most liberating mail you will ever get. Don’t wait!

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05/26/06
The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island
Filed under: Destinations
Posted by: @ 10:29 am

Mid May I had the chance to spend a few hours touring one of the South’s premier beach resorts, The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island. It’s location 21 miles south of Charleston features a scenic drive that nicely sets the mood and builds anticipation as you motor beneath a canopy of dense oak and Spanish moss. Less than two years old, this property developed a lot of buzz even before hosting its first guest due to the cost of the project. At a construction figure of $500,000 per room, she is one of the most expensive resorts on record.

 

A circular drive drops guests under a large portico that leads to the sea view lobby. The concept of this resort is the replication of an old southern mansion house that has been constructed with keen attention to historical detail. Just about anything you can think of has been done to give this new property a rich, weathered patina. At 255 rooms housed in a U shaped configuration, the hotel has an openness which flows easily into the expansive beach.

 

The décor of the property is an interesting mix of masculine woods, warm crèmes and rustic antique touches. It is a hotel that does a nice job of creating an atmosphere born out of what most people envision as old school “suth-en” luxury.

 

The Sanctuary considers itself primarily a leisure property that caters heavily to golfers, and families. Small business groups can be accommodated in a modest size library and board room. Two pools offer a sand-free way to sun and an extensive exercise facility offers guests a menu of classes that changes daily. The spa is frequently busy and recommends advance reservations.

 

Foodies will find the varied offerings at The Sanctuary of very high quality. I had lunch at the Jasmine Porch, which is located in what is supposed to be the mansion’s old stables, and enjoyed the best shrimp and grits I have ever had. Much of what you will find on the menus are updated takes on traditional low country standards. All go excellent with a tall glass of sweet tea. The Charleston Post and Courier last year named the fine dining Ocean Room as the Charleston area’s best restaurant. It has a great adjoining bar that is appealingly cool, dark and cavernous.

 

The Sanctuary offers several packages for travelers. Some geared toward the island’s five courses and others appealing to those who want to experience a few nights in Charleston in conjunction with their beach stay. The City and Sea program evenly splits time between The Sanctuary and The Wentworth Mansion in Charleston.

 

The Sanctuary gets high marks as a resort for families and golf enthusiasts who seek a high quality, low-key atmosphere where the tasteful accommodations nicely complement Mama Nature, the real star of the show.

 

www.thesanctuary.com

 

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05/18/06
Jetsetters Wanted!!
Filed under: General
Posted by: @ 12:21 pm

Welcome to The Souljourn Notebook, a thirsty canvas for those who are most at home when they are not. Most postings will be from Souljourn clients who have been asked to share their experiences, however anyone can make a post by first contacting me via e-mail or phone. All are welcomed to comment on the posts.

Slainte!

Wes

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